The key is to follow these simple instructions:

HAVE A MANGET HANDY, YOU WILL DROP STUFF.
Have a DECENT LIGHT HANDY. You'll need it to see the stuff you drop!

Unbolt the metal clip that holds the oil filler neck and rotate the neck counter clockwise and slide it up and out of the metal bracket. You can see a groove in the air pump bracket on the left side that that groove is where the filler neck must clear to release!

Next you'll see the air pump:



You want to remove the electrical connectors and these two bolts:



The trick is to rotate that pump completely out of the way to give you the space NORMAL HANDS REQUIRE... DO THIS AND YOU'RE GOLDEN:



Slide the pump completely as far right as humanly possible, beyond those lines and you'll expose the fpr and clip. Without doing that, you can't get your hands under the clip to pop it out.

Once you get the FPR exposed, disconnet the vacuum line and get a screw driver or long needlenose plyer under the edge of the housing, between the clip and housing and pop it out...



Once you pop it out, you'll want a rag handy to get the gas up... DO THIS REMOVAL WITH THE MOTOR COLD. No heat, or you'll have a nice car-B-Que!

When you install the FPR it will undoubtedly be a bitch... I used the clip to pop it into place once I got the new FPR in the hole... Once the clip was used to "pop" it in, I was good to go. Reassembly is 10 minutes, assuming you werent' like me and dropped a couple items that required finding!

It really is an easy 1 hour job.

Mike

Mike, you made it look so easy. You are right about the 1 hour, that is what it took me the first time, but thereafter I had it down to 30 minutes. I dont want to critique your excellent DIY, but you forgot the most important part of this procedure....real small hands

Yup, my hands got really beat up on that one, until I moved the air pump all the way to the right under those 3 hoses and into the right rear hip, then I had plenty of room.

Mike

Damn you guys are smart......I removed mine from underneath when i was changing the turbos.......you can access from underneath the passenger side of the motor when the turbos and headers are off but I would assume this is easier.

I am at stage 4 with UMW hybrid K24's/GIAC programming, custom wastegates and ic's, allot of folks are saying yes to 5bar FPR and other saying not needed...what are the benefits of the 5bar FPR?

thanks

__________________
Deepblue - '01 Turbo - Lapis Blue
UMW 2C :: GT2 Brakes, GT2 Bumper and Wing :: X73 with RS Mounts
Sachs Stage 4 Clutch :: EuroPipe2 Loud :: ECM Suite ;-)

Chris, check out this thread:

Have fun

__________________
Statman
04 996TT Cab (description & pics)
Go Buffs!
Fight On!

Excellent thread, thanks! Looks like I need a fpr. Did you install your own?

__________________
Deepblue - '01 Turbo - Lapis Blue
UMW 2C :: GT2 Brakes, GT2 Bumper and Wing :: X73 with RS Mounts
Sachs Stage 4 Clutch :: EuroPipe2 Loud :: ECM Suite ;-)

Of course not...Orrin again...

__________________
Statman
04 996TT Cab (description & pics)
Go Buffs!
Fight On!

I installed mine, and it's less than an hour to do it... Cake!!!

Mike

__________________
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...heelsup24k.jpg
"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"
mjk 1994

Sounds like I need to consider this.... yes?

K24s, EP2, UMW flash, dv, wastegates holds 1.1 up to redline, 1.2 on occasion.

Thoughts?

(Thanks for the DIY Mike!)

Adam

__________________
2004 996TT Slate X50
UMW Flash; Europipe EP2 Loud; UMW wastegate upgrade; Forge Diverters