http://www.bradpennracing.com/ ???

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Pete
993TT UMW Stage 1 (coming soon: UMW 3.8L Beast )

Its' Dino oil>non-synthetic.. It's good for engine break-in but after 500 miles a synthetic with proper engine oil additives is a must.

They have several formulations including a blended dino/synthetic. I was planning to use their dino oil to break in that new motor you are building for me And then use the blended forumla after break in.

It was one of the brands specifically recommended by http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html. Seems a lot of Porsche shops/folks, especially the air cooled group, are switching to it.

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Pete
993TT UMW Stage 1 (coming soon: UMW 3.8L Beast )

Hi Pete,
I agree with Kevin

Any mineral lubricant of suitable viscosity is a good break in "device". A Heavy Duty Engine Oil (HDEO) such as Rotella T Multigrade 15w-40 or Delvac 1300 15w-40 will do the job well

After break in use a suitable and well known synthetic lubricant such as M1

Regards
Doug

Doug there has been alot of mention about using the Mobil 1 VTwin oil for the air-cooled engines. Your thoughts. I'll post the specs as soon as I retrieve them.

From the Mobil 1 site..

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...AQs.aspx#FAQs2

So how is Mobil 1 for passenger cars different from Mobil 1 for motorcycles?

First, let's be clear about Mobil 1's overall benefits compared to those of conventional motor oils, whether for passenger cars or motorcycles:

Superior long-term engine protection.

Superior high-temperature stability.

Excellent low-temperature starting.

Outstanding engine performance.

Low volatility/low oil consumption

It's a little hard to generalize about the difference between Mobil 1 passenger-car motor oils and Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. That's because not all viscosities of Mobil 1 passenger-car oils have the same levels of zinc and phosphorus, and there are even greater differences among the three Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. In general, Mobil 1 motorcycle oils have:

Additive packages balanced differently for motorcycle engine and transmission operation. For passenger vehicles, fuel economy and emission system protection are higher priorities. These require low phosphorus systems and the use of friction modifiers. Motorcycle oils do not require friction modifiers for fuel economy and for better clutch friction less/no friction modifier is optimum. Motorcycle oils allow the use of higher levels of antiwear additives such as ZDDP (phosphorous).

(Updated December 2007)

Hi Kevin,
a number of people use the M1 MC range as a new baseline for M1 use in Porsche cars when they are outside the Approved lubricant range <MY84. But Porsche always factory filled aircooled engines with a HD (HDEO) of SAE30 viscosity and also prescribed a SAE40 HDEO (15w-40)

The M1 MC range are good lubricants in their correct application and a pre MY84 air cooled Porsche could be just that! Their Racing 4T 10w-40 version looks great

Synthetic SAE40 lubricants do have an advantage over a mineral 15w-40 HDEO in aircooled engines in normal street use, the same applies to 20w-50 lubricants in either a mineral or synthetic form too

Pure racing applications may be better off on a 20w-50 viscosity in some cases and M1 V-Twin 20w-50 would fit that bill!

Using a the V-Twin 20w-50 version for street use would NOT be my choice and M1 15w-50 (both versions) are better SAE50 synthetic choices

A mineral HDEO such as Delvac 1300 15w-40 will easily do the job well where a "cheaper" high quality SAE40 lubricant is used.

Porsche use such 15w-40 lubricants in their own older aircooled engines

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Regards
Doug Hillary
MY06 CLK Benz (M1 0w-40)
MY01 Boxster 2.7 Tiptronic (Delvac 1 5w-40)

Doug, do you have the HTHS Viscosity number for the VTwin.

Over the months I have seen your recommendations leaning towards the 5W..10W and 15W.. >> Is this due to the fluid/drag or pumping losses at start up? The initial bearing wear and piston skirt wear at start up.

Hi Kevin,
as Mobil do not state the HTHS vis. for M1 V-Twin 20w-50 I have used my viscosity calulator to estimate it and it appears to be around 5.8cSt

Once above around 4.5cSt the HTHS viscosity becomes counterproductive (when fuel dilution is not an issue) and especially so in turbochargers and with regard to oil flow (cooling - heat transfer etc) and the pass time in ring packs etc

I have always been a low starting viscosity exponent due to the need to get off lubrication system and oil filter (differential) bypass and to enable full filtration media flow - and to cease what can be extended periods of boundary lubrication

In all suitable engines the 0w-?? or 5w-?? ratings are best. This takes into account the various hydraulic functions required of lubricants today. 15w-?? may be best for many older generation air cooled engines but this is largely due to the technologies and the seal materials used and etc

The prime requirement for a lubricant is for it to actually have very little "fluidity" change from cold to hot and vice-versa. People cannot grasp this and this is just one positive result with the formulation of M1 0w-40 for instance

Viscous drag is a real issue when you rise above a 15w rating with a cold lubricant. The lack of flow is a serious factor regarding (as you correctly point out) major component wear. This is more so with mineral lubricants as they have a greater resistance to flow in real terms. I don't like the use of 20w-?? lubricants in any engine unless there are very good operational reasons. For instance the Porsche Factory uses a 20w-50 mineral lubricant in many of their old and very precious engines but the lubricant is always warmed to 80C before load/revs are applied. Seals and technologies are the prime reasons!

The various Anti Wear chemicals become increasingly active when the lubricant's temperature reaches around 60C and above

I hope this is of interest

__________________
Regards
Doug Hillary
MY06 CLK Benz (M1 0w-40)
MY01 Boxster 2.7 Tiptronic (Delvac 1 5w-40)

The next oil change I think I will try either M1 5w40w or Motul 300v 5w40w.Which would you recommend?